Beirut in Bay Ridge
What this foodstroll is
Our take on the ultimate day trip to Bay Ridge, Brooklyn.
Why this foodstroll works
Walking around Bay Ridge is a microcosm of walking through NYC. You’ll find Irish, Italian, Greek, Russian, Polish, Lebanese, and Chinese communities living amongst each other on an almost block by block basis. But perhaps the most predominant community would be the Middle Eastern section on 5th Ave between 67th and 86th Streets. This stretch is home to dozens of restaurants and markets selling everything from clothes and jewelry, to some of NYC’s best Middle Eastern food. If this isn’t reason enough to visit, Bay Ridge also has some interesting architecture, and a variety of parks, playgrounds, and waterfront areas perfect for strolling around. The fact that there’s a NYC Ferry terminal smack in the middle of the action is a bonus, and makes for a very fun afternoon.
Strolling
The northern and eastern sections of Bay Ridge are full of row houses and apartment buildings, whereas the southern and western sections along the water have more large single family homes. Both areas have their charms. South of 86th Street is sometimes referred to as Fort Hamilton, although it is part of greater Bay Ridge.
If you follow Foodstrolls, you’ll know we’re huge fans of all NYC Ferry routes. The South Brooklyn route, which ends in Bay Ridge, plays second fiddle to none. The Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world when it was completed in 1964, is visible nearly the whole time.
The ferry drops you off at the American Veterans Memorial Pier, right at the northern end of Shore Road Promenade, a 4.5 mile long path that stretches from Bay Ridge to Bensonhurst. It’s one of our favorite places in NYC for a little exercise, with views of the Verrazano on one end and Lower Manhattan on the other.
The promenade has several access points, like this footbridge at the Old Glory Lookout, which allow you to cross above the Belt Parkway back into Bay Ridge. Don’t forget to bring love locks, if that’s something you do.
Shore Road south of Old Glory Lookout is full of homes reminiscent of the 19th century when Bay Ridge was a summer resort for wealthy Manhattanites. Once full of Greek, Italianate, and Gothic Revival residences, most have since been torn down and replaced by contemporary mansions like this one, in a more Mediterranean Villa style.
One of the few homes remaining from the late 19th and early 20th Century is the famous “Gingerbread House” at 8200 Narrows Avenue. It was built in 1917 by James Sarsfield Kennedy in the English Arts and Crafts architectural style, and is a NYC Landmark.
If you want to double back north, you can walk on the other side of the Parkway through Shore Road Park, the Narrows Botanical Garden, and up to Owl’s Head Park. Owl’s Head is a 24-acre park with a children's playground, dog run, and skate park. In the Winter it’s also home to Bay Ridge’s best hill for sledding.
Millennium Skate Park inside Owl’s Head Park is NYC’s oldest concrete skate park, dating back to 2001. It’s also one of the best, albeit for relatively advanced skaters.
Heading inland, you can look for clusters of townhomes dating back to the early 1900s, when speculators developed housing ahead of the 4th Avenue subway line’s opening in 1915. Two such blocks are listed on the National Register of Historic Places, namely Senator Street between 3rd and 4th Aves (pictured), and Ovington Ave between 3rd Ave and Ridge Blvd.
Nevertheless, there are relatively few landmarks in Bay Ridge, especially compared to Brooklyn neighborhoods further north. In fact, the only NYC Landmarked Historic District is “Doctor’s Row”, a stretch of early 20th Century Renaissance Revival townhomes on Bay Ridge Parkway between 4th and 5th Aves. The name derives from the high concentration of doctor’s offices found on the ground floors.
If all you do is concentrate your stroll to the Arab enclave along 5th Ave, there is still plenty to see. There are Middle Eastern markets of all shapes and sizes. We give our kids a couple of bucks and they always seem to find something they like.
Food Spots
1. Le Sajj
Le Sajj is our favorite Lebanese restaurant in NYC. They have a large menu full of traditional Mediterranean dishes, and we always start with some cheese. We know most people go with fried Halloumi at Middle Eastern restaurants, but our favorite here are the Sajj Cheese Rolls.
No visit to a Lebanese restaurant would be complete without sampling their Mezze, or small plates. The Lebanese Garden comes with Baba Ghanouj, Hummus, Grape Leaves, Falafel, and Tabbouleh. Alternatively, the Majdalona Garden has Garlic Labneh, Fattoosh, Spinach Pie, and Muhammara. Both give you ample opportunity to dip the Khubz, or bread, that accompanies any meal at Le Sajj.
The Sajj Combination let’s you try Shish, Chicken, and Kafta Kebabs all at once. Our favorite is the Shish. All kebabs come with an intensely garlicy Labneh, and you can swap out rice for French fries on all entrées.
Fried whole fish dishes are typical in Mediterranean cuisine, and Le Sajj has several. Our favorite is the Fried Sultan Ibrahim, which are fried Barbounia, or Red Mullet. The Tahini served with them is just as important as the fish, and we dip everything in it.
2. Tanoreen
Tanoreen is arguably the most famous restaurant in Bay Ridge, and the best Palestinian place we know of. In business since 1998, the owners have also published several highly regarded cookbooks.
As mentioned earlier, when eating Middle Eastern food, we like to start with cheese. At Tanoreen that means the Crispy Fried Halloumi Cheese, which thanks to its high melting point, really lives up to its name.
As per protocol, you have to sample the meze. Tanoreen has an option where you can choose any four, and there is no bad combination. Bear in mind though that their Cauliflower, which comes fried and doused in Tahini, helped make them famous.
A recent Daily Special featured a half chicken, braised in garlic, lemon juice, and onions, along with potatoes and cabbage. The chicken was great, but mixing the Rice Pilaf in the sauce is the real reason you should order this.
Balady is the best Middle Eastern supermarket in NYC that we know of. They carry a huge variety of Middle Eastern products, both fresh and imported. The butcher is excellent, with dozens of Halal lambs hanging rom the ceiling.
There are bulk bins full of Middle Eastern necessities, like traditional Lebanese Seven Spice. They also carry Chicken Spice and Meat Spice. We didn’t see a “Fish Spice”, but are pretty sure one exists.
It’s also a good place to stock up on Mezze. They import all manner of pickled veggies, including tons of different types of Mediterranean olives. They also have a fresh section where you can mix and match things like pickled Jalapeno peppers and radish.
The bakery churns out fresh Lebanese desserts like Baklava, Halawet el Jibn, and Znoud al-sit. They also have fresh baked bread, cakes, and other Middle Eastern treats.
Transportation
When the NYC Ferry is an option, we always encourage you to enjoy it. The South Brooklyn route stops in Bay Ridge, but connections are free and you can start anywhere. The NYC Ferry app is great and we use it to buy our tickets, but you could do the same at the Terminal if you’re feeling nostalgic. Routes and Schedules here.
The R train runs right down the middle of Bay Ridge, stopping at Bay Ridge Ave, 77th St, and 86th St, and the B63 bus runs down 5th Ave all the way from Atlantic Terminal to Bay Ridge. Streetside parking is an option.