Coney Island to Brighton Beach
What this foodstroll is
Our favorite Central Asian food in Brighton Beach, and a jaunt to Coney Island.
Why this foodstroll works
Brighton Beach is undeniably one of the great ethnic enclaves in NYC. Few neighborhoods are as culturally immersed as this seaside community, aka Little Odessa, where 80% of residents were born abroad and 40% speak no English at all. An increasing number of those people hail from the former Soviet countries of Central Asia, which basically cook Soviet style food without the need to pickle and preserve everything for a ten-month winter. The neighborhood is small, easily walkable, and accessible via subway and bike. Nearby attractions include the New York Aquarium, Coney Island, Luna Park, and of course the beach itself.
Strolling
It really doesn’t matter whether you start the trip with food or fun. The only thing we encourage is allowing for an hour or so to stroll through the markets and shops in Little Odessa, the 15 block stretch of Brighton Beach Ave between Ocean Parkway and West End Ave. Most spots we’re recommending are about a mile from the Aquarium and Coney Island, which makes for a perfect stroll down the boardwalk.
Coney Island/Brighton Beach are certainly unique in that a top family destination and classic NYC ethnic neighborhood don’t usually cohabitate. If visiting by subway, take a moment to enjoy the Coney Island - Stillwell Ave station, one of the largest elevated train stations in the world.
The 2.7 mile long Riegelmann Boardwalk (1923) connects Brighton Beach and Coney Island and is a perfect place to bike. We’ve extolled the virtues of the Ocean Parkway Bike Path in Coney Island Bike Trip, which makes for a memorable day trip if you have the energy.
Luna Park and Deno’s Amusement Park occupy the busiest section of the boardwalk in the heart of Coney Island. Between them they have three historic rides with either city or national landmark status, including the Wonder Wheel (pictured). The rides are open May through October, but the parks themselves, which opened in the early 20th century, are worth visiting year round.
Beach lovers can set up camp anywhere on the beach itself, and the neighborhoods share the same expansive beachfront. It gets crowded with a lively cast of characters in the Summer, but that’s part of the fun.
We’re no experts on Aquariums, but this one is awesome and the only one of its kind in NYC. If zoos and aquariums are your thing, consider a Wildlife Conservation Society Membership which includes the Aquarium. We recommend the Family Zoos plus Aquarium package that is $270 annually tax deductible.
They have sharks, and you can get up close and personal with all wildlife. If possible try and catch a Sea Lion show, the schedule can be found here. The Aquarium has been in its current location since 1957, but was established in Battery Park in 1896!
Food Spots
These sit down spots are affordable, and BYOB, which in Brighton Beach means BYOV, so feel free to bring a bottle of daddy’s special water. As Kashkar’s website reads, “Delicious food, friendly staff, that's it we can guarantee for little money.” We couldn’t have said it better ourselves.
1. Kashkar Cafe
Kashkar Cafe is a highly respected neighborhood spot preparing traditional Uyghur cuisine. They have a variety of soups, like the Chuchvara with pelmeni dumplings, and a large selection of savory meat pies. The Pamirdin Samsa is a family favorite.
Manty, or Manti, are quintessential Central Asian food, and the Uyghur versions are enormous. They’re basically spiced lamb dumplings served with sour cream. They come four to an order, fried or steamed, and don’t expect your kids to leave many for you.
Lagman Soup is extremely popular throughout Central Asia, but Uyghurs consider it a national dish.
Pilaf is ubiquitous in Central Asia and the Caucasus. The Uyghur version, Polu, is prepared with pickled carrot, onion, and tomato.
Tashkent Supermarket, as you may have guessed, is an Uzbek market selling hot and cold foods from across Central Asia and the former USSR. Their variety of Manti Dumplings is impressive, ranging from traditional beef and lamb, to seasonal pumpkin.
They prepare every kind of salad imaginable, like Russian Vinegret, and a half dozen versions of Olivier Salad. If you like smoked salmon, their to go containers are excellent take home souvenirs.
Chicken Bekti, Chicken Kiev, and Potato Zrazy make for excellent beach snacks or reheatable lunches the next day.
They have sweets from across Europe and Central Asia, as well as more regional Soviet treats, like Blinis, cakes, and Syrniki.
3. Euroasia Cafe
As the name suggests, Euroasia Cafe has a massive menu that spans two continents. Whatever language barriers you may encounter are more than made up for in family friendliness. Borscht, a classic Ukrainian beet soup, and Kompot, a type of Balkan tea made with preserved cherries, are popular with our kids.
Everyone loves Blintzes with Cottage Cheese, chocolate, and powdered sugar. They’re in the Farinaceous Dishes section of the menu, and that’s the first time we’ve ever seen that word. It means “with starch”.
You eat french fries with utensils in this part of the world. These Fried Potatoes with Mushrooms come in a delicious heap, with a peppery red sauce on the side.
The kebabs at Euroasia are generous. Lamb Ribs are nice, but Lyulya Kebabs, made of minced lamb, spices, and herbs, are a must order.
Transportation
Our favorite mode of transportation is the bike. It’s a five mile straight shot from Prospect Park to Brighton Beach/Coney Island, and the exclusive bike path down Ocean Parkway takes you all the way. If that’s not in the cards, the Q train stops at both Brighton Beach and the New York Aquarium, the F train stops at West 8 Street-New York Aquarium, and the D and N trains stop in the fabulous Coney Island-Stillwell Ave Station.
The Aquarium has a dedicated parking lot where $25 buys you four hours. Two hour metered parking is available along the main avenues in the neighborhood and there is a Muni Lot next to Brighton Beach’s boardwalk. Spaces are tougher to find in summer months, but it’s possible to streetside park if you’re willing to park a few blocks off of the main drag.
The NYC Ferry is launching a Coney Island route in 2021, and we can’t wait.