Founding Father Foodstroll
January 3, 2024
Alexander Tervooren
What this foodstroll is
The ultimate afternoon in Hamilton Heights.
Why this foodstroll works
NYC fell to the British Army early in the Revolutionary War, and as a result, much of the iconography associated with that period in American history comes from places like Massachusetts, Virginia, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. But as long as you accept the fact that we did lose some battles, a great deal of history can be found throughout NYC, especially in Harlem. In the middle of Harlem is the Hamilton Heights neighborhood and former estate of Alexander Hamilton, the wildly popular Founding Father and inspiration for Broadway’s Hamilton . But that’s just the start. Naturally we’ll be eating American food on this Foodstroll, and some of the best in NYC can be found here.
Strolling
The Hamilton Grange sits at the northern end of St. Nicholas Park. If you and your kids have been anywhere near as addicted to Hamilton as we have, it’s a good place to start your Foodstroll. The home was the focal point of Hamilton’s estate, which at the time had river to river views of the Harlem and Hudson Rivers. He lived there from 1801 until his premature death in 1804.
The museum inside is open Friday-Sunday, and you can view the fully restored interior, including Hamilton’s desk and piano. Check hours of operations before visiting. St. Nicholas Park and City College across the street are also great places to visit. City College, “the Poor Man’s Harvard”, was the first tuition free university in America, with admission based solely on academic merit.
Walking north from Hamilton Grange toward Sugar Hill you’ll stroll through the Hamilton Terrace Historic District. We’re Wes Anderson fans and enjoy walking up Convent Ave past the corner of 144th St. Recognize the house anyone?
The residential section of Hamilton Heights known as Sugar Hill was an enclave for prominent Black Americans in the 1920s and 30s, and the center of the Harlem Renaissance. The Bailey and Benziger Houses are two of the most ornate residences in the neighborhood, and they’re right next door to each other.
The Morris Jumel Mansion inside Roger Morris Park is the oldest house in Manhattan, dating back to 1765. The Georgian style home was used as George Washington’s headquarters during the Continental Army’s retreat from Manhattan in the Fall of 1776. The home is open for tours and stocked with period pieces from the 19th century.
Across the street is Sylvan Terrace, once the mansion’s carriage drive and now a landmarked historic block of wooden row houses. Built in 1882 after the property had been divided and sold, the homes were considered modest at the time, intended for immigrant laborers tasked with NYC’s northward development.
Audubon Terrace is a group of structures built by Archer Milton Huntington from 1908-1930 that house several cultural institutions, including The Hispanic Society of America, The American Academy of Arts and Letters, and Boricua College. Huntington’s wife Anna Hyatt Huntington, a well known sculptor, designed several statues around the plaza like this portrayal of the famous Spanish literary icon Don Quixote.
The Hispanic Society of America just opened In the Heights: From University to Silver Screen. The exhibit uses images to document the creation and production of the new musical In The Heights. It’s a great way to explain to kids the relationship of Lin Manuel Miranda’s Hamilton character and the real life neighborhood of the actor himself.
The Gothic Revival Church of the Intercession is a quintessential country church, reminiscent of upper Manhattan’s rural past. You don’t have to be a taphophile to appreciate the magnificent gravestones and mausoleums throughout the grounds.
The Trinity Church Cemetery and Mausoleum was constructed in 1842 to relieve the capacity of Trinity Church Wall Street, where Alexander Hamilton is actually buried. But many other historical figures are at rest here, including famous New Yorkers like John James Audubon, Eliza Jumel, and John Jacob Astor.
Harlem Public serves some of the best American bar food in NYC. The Daddy Mac burger, which comes with thousand island dressing and funyuns, is one of our favorites in all of NYC.
Their Loaded Grilled Cheese was featured on Television’s “The Best Thing I Ever Ate.” Our kids are experts on grilled cheese, and they do not disagree.
All their fried chicken sandwich options are fantastic. This one consisting of chicken thigh, garlic aioli, American cheese, coleslaw and pickles is so elaborate, it doesn’t even have a name.
They’ve always had outdoor dining, but it’s now a year round thing. The setup is perfect for families.
Hamilton Hall is a gastropub where the kitchen is run by a former chef at Eleven Madison Park. The menu is full of elevated pub fare, like these Confit Chicken Wings. In case you can’t tell from the picture, they’re crispy.
Eleven Madison Park is widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in the world, so when an alum starts slinging things like Fried Chicken Sandwiches from a bar, you need to try one.
Our kids swear by the Steak Sandwich, which they claim is even better than a cheeseburger.
In addition to bar food, they have full scale entrees like this Pan Seared Airline Chicken (wing attached). We don’t typically order chicken breast when it competes on a menu with things like burgers and steak sandwiches, but in this case it’s a really good decision.
The Famous Wallace Cheeseburger is more closely related to a smash burger than its cousin at Harlem Public. This can be helpful for young children who can’t quite fit a full sized pub burger into their mouths.
The Baker’s Fries are a multi course meal all on one plate. We count four major food groups - chicken, potato, cheese, and scallions. If hot sauce were a fruit, it’d have all five.
In spite of our wicked prejudices, we always enjoy good vegan food, and The Melty Vegan is right on the money.
The Steez Dawg is loaded with bacon and mac ‘n’ cheese. Trust us, there’s a hot dog underneath.
Sugar Hill Creamery is Harlem’s most well know ice cream shop. It has two locations, and their Hamilton Heights outpost is smack in the middle of all the action.
The concept of eating ice cream outside when it’s 28 degrees may seem unappealing, but we can assure you it appeals to kids.
Transportation
There are several subway stations along 145th Street that service the 1, A, C, and D trains . There’s also a 1 train stop nearby on 148th Street.
Streetside parking and metered parking are possible in the neighborhood, but finding a space can be frustrating.