Victorian Flatbush and Little Pakistan
What this foodstroll is
Our favorite things to do in Flatbush and where to eat in “Little Pakistan”.
Why this foodstroll works
Brooklyn is great 247/7/365, but the Fall and Spring are especially nice, and nowhere is it better than Victorian Flatbush in Ditmas Park. Flatbush has a deep connection to Brooklyn, being one of the original six towns in Kings County, and there are a few spots that date back to colonial Dutch New Netherlands. The Prospect Park South Historic District, a small section of early 20th century Victorian mansions in Ditmas Park, will transport you to another world. But perhaps our favorite part of the neighborhood is the more contemporary enclave known as “Little Pakistan”, where you can eat some of NYC’s best South Asian food on a tight budget!
Strolling
Any visit to Flatbush with history in mind must start at the Flatbush Dutch Reformed Church at the corner of Church and Flatbush Aves. It is the oldest continually used site of worship in NYC, first chartered in 1654 by Pieter Stuyvesant, the final governor of colonial New Netherlands. It is also the third oldest church building in NYC, with the current structure completed in 1797. Many prominent Dutch colonists of early Flatbush are buried in the adjacent cemetery, as are several American Patriot soldiers who died in the Battle of Brooklyn, during the early days of the American Revolution.
Across the street is Erasmus Hall, the first public secondary school (high school) in the State of New York (1896). If you peek inside the courtyard, you’ll notice an older building that was once a private school established by Dutch settlers in 1786. That building now operates as a museum in the middle of campus. The current Erasmus Hall was built between 1905-1940 on a block that includes the old Flatbush Town Hall, US Post Office, and aforementioned church. Famous Erasmus Hall alums include actress Barbra Streisand, singer Neil Diamond, and chess champion Bobby Fischer.
“Victorian Flatbush” is a neighborhood full of serene blocks, tulip gardens, and mansions in a variety of styles not that common in NYC, including Victorian, Queen Anne, and Tudor. It developed from farmland in the late 19th century, after the construction of the Brooklyn Bridge and establishment of railcar operators made the area accessible. Designed to resemble country living, it was marketed as “The Village in the City”.
In October, the Colonial Revival home from the prior picture transforms into the best Halloween Haunted House in NYC. Autumn also happens to be a great time to visit the neighborhood. Located at 1306 Albemarle Road, come enjoy the decorations, and remember to be respectful (people do live there).
Today the streets and homes resemble the Old South more than they do New York. No two homes are the same, and visiting it you’ll feel like you’ve left the city entirely. The neighborhood is Landmarked as the Prospect Park South Historic District, but despite this it’s little known to most New Yorkers. For our money, we can’t think of a better place to experience a changing of the seasons in NYC. No ticket required!
Although not officially part of Ditmas Park, you could elect to start or end your stroll inside Prospect Park. One of our kids’ favorite activities near Ditmas Park is Boat Rentals on Prospect Park Lake. It’s a completely disproportionate amount of exercise for the adult in the boat, but anything for the kids…
For a more equitable form of exercise, you could simply bike through the park and along the plentiful bike lanes in Ditmas Park. Favorite stops include the Boathouse on the Lullwater of the Lake. The Italian Renaissance structure was built in 1904, and designed to resemble the original Pennsylvania Station (1910). The station was demolished in 1968, but the boathouse should stick around for a while, being on the National Register of Historic Places since 1972.
Grecian Shelter, aka the Prospect Park Peristyle, is a Renaissance style structure at the southern edge of the park, nearest Victorian Flatbush. Built in 1905 by NYC mega architectural firm McKim, Mead, and White, it was originally intended as a refuge from the elements. Today it is a National and New York City designated landmark, and nice place to relax year round.
Food Spots
1. Dunya Kabab House
The best restaurant in Little Pakistan from a sit down perspective is actually not Pakistani, but Afghan. Dunya Kabab House is making a name for itself with its food, and its décor, with beautiful murals of the Afghan countryside adorning the walls. This mural of the famous 1984 photographic portrait Afghan Girl, which depicts an Afghan refugee in Pakistan during the Afghan-Soviet War, also keeps you company while you dine.
Afghan food has some overlap with Pakistani and South Asian food, but reminds us more of Central Asian cuisine from places like Uzbekistan. For example, these Afghan Mantu Dumplings are essentially Uzbek Manti Dumplings; main difference being the Afghan versions are typically topped with a meat gravy, whereas in other Central Asian cuisines they’re served naked (most of the time). Either way the Afghan beef stuffed version is a must order. Also pictured are the Bolani Gandana, or traditional vegetable pancakes.
Kababs feature prominently in Afghan cuisine and Dunya prepares a variety. Our favorite are the Chapli Kababs, which are native to both Afghanistan and Pakistan. If you want to try several, consider the Mixed Grill (pictured), which will run you about $20. Bear in mind Dunya provides a more upscale experience in comparison to the average curry shop in Little Pakistan, and the prices reflect that…
Our favorite dish at Dunya is the Uzbek Qabuli Palao, and if you’re deciding between kababs or an entrée, this is what you should order. Kabuli Palaw (spelling not important) is the national dish of Afghanistan and is sometimes called Uzbek Kabuli Palaw, owing to its similarities to Uzbek Plov, which we’ve adulated about many times on the blog. The Afghan version is noticeable for its dried raisins and unmistakable use of cinnamon.
2. Mashallah Sweets and Restaurant
Few people know the largest concentration of Pakistanis in NYC is not in Queens, but along Coney Island Avenue in Ditmas Park/Kensington. There are many places to buy some South Asian sweets and curries in the area, but Mashallah is our favorite. There’s no table service and it’s very casual, but if you can’t have a great meal here for under $20, you’re doing something wrong.
It’s nothing fancy; just reliable Pakistani classics like Chicken Jalfarezi, Haleem, and Butter Chicken. In fact, we’re going to call it the best Butter Chicken in Brooklyn, and we travel for good Butter Chicken. Other specialties include baked items like Spicy and Garlic Naan.
We eat a lot of South Asian food throughout Brooklyn and Queens, and the Kabobs at Mashalla stand up to anything we’ve had. They range from traditional minced beef and lamb kabobs (pictured), to more exotic mint yogurt marinated Chicken Tikka. Expect to pay around $5 per order.
Mashallah is an Arabic phrase that is used to express contentment, joy, praise, and thankfulness. It’s an appropriate word to use when tasting the Biryani here, Pakistan’s national dish. If you’re like us, you’ll feel praise and joy knowing you just experienced authentic Pakistani food without breaking the bank!
Transportation
The Q train takes you closest to Prospect Park Lake at Parkside Avenue, as well as into Victorian Flatbush at both Church Ave and Beverley Road. The Cortelyou Road station is just a few blocks from both food spots. The F, G, 2, and 3 trains also put you in the general vicinity of the park and food spots.
Streetside parking is possible but difficult right next to the park. It gets easier as you approach Victorian Flatbush and Cortelyou Road.